Rome - the Colosseum and the Forum

Bright and early this morning, we once again met our guide, Claudia.
This time, she had agreed to guide us through the Colosseum and the Forum.


Constructed in 80 AD and originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre,
the building was renamed the Colosseum due to the enormous - colossal -
statue that used to stand nearby.
Emperor Nero - an unsavory and unusual character  - placed a giant 100 foot bronze statue
of himself in the center of the city.  What started as a nickname became the name that stuck.
Eventually, Emperor Hadrian had the statue removed, but the name remained.

This building has more than 80 entrances and could hold more than 55,000 people.
It was most famous for the gladiator matches that were held here.
These matches were an intricate theatrical performance.  The entire production was
displayed on a stage that covered the entire floor of the arena.  
There were trap doors operated by slaves underneath that would spring
up and, to the delight of the audience, change the scenery or introduce new animals or
gladiators to the match.  The entire floor was covered with sand so as to disguise
these doors and maintain the surprise.
Claudia also taught us that the word "arena" is derived for the latin word for sand.
A small portion of the stage has been rebuilt for current display, but the labyrinth that was
necessary underneath the stage for these performances is still evident.


In their day, these matches were used as political and social tools.
Prominent politicians or leaders, looking to gain favor with the people, would
foot the bill.  For the people attending, the match was free.  You only had to be given a ticket.
At the end of the match, no gladiator would be killed without a nod from the patron as he had to pay for the loss of the gladiator to his owner.
Gladiators were not inexpensive.  First they were purchased as slaves
and then years of training had to be paid for by their owners.
Animals were also brought in from all over the world.
Elephants, lions, giraffes, and all sorts of other exotic animals were used in the matches.

Fortunately, as Christianity grew throughout the Roman Empire,
these matches slowly became a thing of the past.
 Unfortunately, the great Colosseum fell into ruin.


From the Colosseum we walked past the Arch of Constantine and up to Palatine Hill.
The Arch of Constantine is unique in that it is the only arch that symbolizes the victory of one Roman over another.  Rome was experiencing a period of unrest - civil war.
Constantine defeated Maxentius and built this arch.
Also unusual, he built it taking pieces of other buildings and arches dedicated to other
popular rulers of the Golden Age of Rome.  Hadrian, Trajan, Aurelius - this arch has a piece
of all of them as if to say, "I will return Rome to the Golden Age."


From the Palatine we could view the Forum on one
side and Circus Maximus - the tract where chariot races were held - on the other.
Rome is known as the City of Seven Hills.
The Palatine is the central hill and all other hills of Rome can be seen from here.


The beautiful center court of the Imperial Palace



The Forum was the promenade of ancient Rome that housed, government buildings,
churches, and commerce establishments of the day.  It was main street.
More that that, it was the hub of a city that was the center of world power.

There is one building right in the center of the Forum that is still in use today.
The Church of San Lorenzo in Miranda holds services in what was once the
Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, built in 141 AD.


The Temple of Saturn



It was a wonderful and educational morning.
We are so grateful our outstanding guide.
Claudia grew up in Rome and spent four years studying World history
and another four years studying Roman history.  Her insight was invaluable.
She was so patient with all our questions - we never managed to stump her!
She got extra cool points for teaching the boys how to crack 
the pine nuts falling from the trees and eat them.


After almost four hours of touring, we were all starving.
That is a very good problem to have in Rome - as it is very easy to solve!


On our way back to the apartment to get some schoolwork done,
we took in the sights of the Castel Sant'Angelo.
This impressive fortress has served many purposes.
Built by Hadrian to serve as a tomb for his family, it was later comandeered as military
stronghold during all civil unrest.  Under Nicholas III, the palace became papal property.
A tunnel, known as the Corridoio or Passetto, was built  between St. Peter's Basilica and Castel Sant'Angelo so that Pope could be secreted away to safety at the first sign of trouble.  







Italy Rome Temple

"When you come to the temple, you will love your family with a deeper love than you have ever felt before. The temple is about families." - Richard H. Winkel

Visiting the Italy Rome Temple was not an simple prospect, but it was worth it!  
We opted to go to church nearer the temple in hopes that the congregation 
members would be able to give us some helpful information on how to view
the construction site.  They did more than that, one family offered to give us a 
ride to the best viewing spot!  The Visitor's Center and Stake Center appear close to being done.
The temple is already so beautiful!



The white dome behind the temple is the Visitor's Center.
To the left of that are the apartments and to the right, the Stake Center.


We definitely met some brave knights today.
First, the lovely family at church who volunteered to drive us to the temple grounds.
We are so grateful for good and thoughtful people.



The trek home from the temple was not an easy one, but it was a memorable one.  
Our last train change was at Termini station, Rome's main terminal is where all transportation collides.  We were shocked to discover that seemingly every person in Rome travels to Termini on a Sunday evening.  The platform was absolutely packed.  
When the train we planned to catch arrived, it became a madhouse.  
There were so many people waiting to get on the train, that the people who needed to get off could not do so.  The swell of people pushed me and The Optimist on the train, but Grandma and NoFear were still on the platform behind us, so we swam upstream to get back to them.  Suddenly the train
was beeping and the doors were closing, with the swells of the crowd still growing.   
The boys had attracted a lot of attention walking through Rome in their white shirts, ties... and handsome good looks.  I think that is what caught the attention of our next brave knight.

Over the din, I heard someone yelling, when I turned to the sound, I made eye contact with an enormous black man.  His hulking presence seemed to stop everyone in their tracks.  
He did a Samson move, placing his feet on either side of the closing doors at the bottom and his hands at the top and then motioned with his head for us to get on.  
His very presence commanded that everyone else stand still while we did what he asked.  
We scrambled past him, he released the door, and the train sped on.  
I reached through the sardined train car to give him a high five and a heartfelt thank you.
This brave knight flashed a beautiful big smile and a playful wink.  
It was the perfect and memorable end to another wonderful day.



Rome - Lots of Trouble, the BEST Gelato, and Some Interesting Hair Cuts?

Our second day in Rome we were on our own to explore, find the best gelato,
and get the boys a much needed haircut.
We weren't planning on getting in trouble, but we did.  Here's how it all started. 

Our apartment was not far from the Villa Borghese park.  
We planned a loop that took us to the park, over to see the Spanish steps,
past the Trevi Fountain (drained of water because of repairs),
and then over to the gelato district - which has the bonus benefit of being near
 the Pantheon and other great sites.

As we approached the park, we spied something spectacular - mini cars for rent!
We couldn't pass it up!  We had walked our feet off and this seemed like a great way
to keep the boys happy and see all the places we had planned.
The rules are loose with these cars.  They are allowed anywhere. 
Roads, sidewalks, walking paths.  It's the craziest thing!

We must have asked the guy we rented from at least three times if the boys could drive once we were in the park.  He enthusiastically agreed,  "Yes - in the park."



So Grandma and I were at the wheel as we headed down the Via del Corso, one of the main
shopping streets in Rome and the route we needed to take to enter the park.
I wish we had pictures, but there was simply no time.  This street is packed with 
pedestrians who seem to have no comprehension that they are to stay on the sidewalks to make 
room for the cars on the streets.  Taxis, garbage trucks, bicycles, and us - all weaving, beeping,
and dodging trying not to take out pedestrians.  
Spanish steps?  Whoosh - there they go!
Trevi Fountain?  Even when it's closed there is no place to stop!
Finally, we reach the park and each of the boys gets their turn.



The next thing we know, these Italian men are chasing us down.
They are throwing their arms around, yelling at us, and reaching in to grab the steering wheel
on our cars!  It caught us totally off guard.
Finally, we understood that they were upset that the boys were driving.
I told them that the man we rented from said they could drive in the park.
They were insistent that this was against the rules.
So, we switched back to adult drivers and headed onward.
When we got back to rental place, we started to tell the guy what had happened, 
but he already knew.  The guys in the park had called his cell.
"Why would you let the boys drive?" he asked us.
In disbelief we replied, "because you said we could."
In the end we discovered that there was a communication gap between,
"in the park" and "in park."  We thought we were asking if they could drive on the 
walking paths in the park, he was giving permission for them to pretend to drive
while in park.  Two VERY different things.  Oops!!

We did eventually make it to the Pantheon.
Dating from 125 AD, it is the oldest, in tact, building in Rome.  
It still operates as an existing church.  In fact, there was a church service taking place
when we arrived so while we got a good peak, we didn't take any pictures.



Near the Pantheon is gelato heaven.  A different gelateria can be found at every turn.
We had a few tips on some hotspots, braved the massive crowds, and tasted a few of these
so-called "best," but we're going to go out on a limb right here and declare that
by far, the best gelato we found in Rome was a place called Mo's near our apartment.
Mo's gelato is made in a top-secret kitchen in the back of the store 
using only fresh, organic ingredients.  
There was nothing else in Rome that even came close to making our tastebuds sing like 
they did at Mo's.  We will definitely be back!


As the sun was setting, we took some time to wander through a favorite spot of mine,
the Piazza Navona.  It was as I remembered -- musicians out playing, artists painting and selling their pieces, and two brothers wrestling over who would appear taller in the picture I was taking.



One memory we wanted to be sure and document?
The boys finally got their haircuts.


NoFear's hair came out much the same as before.
The Optimist got we now call, "the Roman swoop."









Rome - Vatican City

We had four wonderful days to take in the sights of Rome.
Claudia was our guide for some of the main sights of this vast city.
It made all the difference to have someone so knowledgable, interesting, and fun!


We spent our first afternoon visiting Vatican City, known as the world's smallest state.
There are 11 Vatican museums including the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican gardens.


We wound our way through the highlights with Claudia's expert guidance.


The Gallery of Maps


We were all amazed that this ceiling pictured below was in fact flat instead of 
three dimensional as it appears.
The boys kept quizzing Claudia, thinking she may have been mistaken.  
The skill of great artists and craftsmen - just beautiful.


In the Tapestry Gallery hangs a beautiful piece inspired by Raphael's paintings entitled, 
"The Tapestry of the Resurrection of Christ."  
Ten other tapestries designed by Raphael hang in the Sistine Chapel.
There is said to have been a fierce rivalry between Raphael and his contemporary Michelangelo who was at the same time busy painting the ceiling of the Chapel.  Raphael wanted the depth of color and the details of scenes to be richer and more beautiful than ever before accomplished so as to not be overshadowed by the ceiling above.  The completed tapestries were hung on December 26, 1519.
Raphael died just four months later in April of 1520.


We headed in the Vatican gardens to see the newest sculpture, 
Sfer con Sfera, or The Sphere within a sphere.
This same sculpture can be found in numerous places throughout the world including
the United Nations in New York.
Claudia made the mistake of demonstrating for the boys that the sculpture rotates.
They asked if they could try...I don't think she was expecting the merry-go-round version.
However, there are now pictures all over the world of the three of them turning 
the sculpture.  It soon drew quite the crowd and big smiles all around.


From the garden we headed for the Sistine Chapel to see what is undoubtedly the most famous artwork in the Vatican Museums - the works of Michelangelo.
He chose to depict nine scenes from the Old Testament, the centerpiece being,
 Creation of Adam.


Michelangelo's many nude paintings in the chapel were shocking to many
patrons of the day.  After his death, another painter was hired to make the 
paintings more modest by adding flowing scarves and robes strategically placed.
However, during recent years of restoration, as often as possible, these additions
have been removed so as to reflect the original art
One cardinal in particular was quite vocal in his disapproval of the art.
Michelangelo responded through his art, painting the cardinal's face on a devil in hades.
Perhaps that is where the reputation of temperamental artists came from??

After exiting the chapel, we got a great view of the Swiss Guard who guard the Vatican.
Why the Swiss we asked?  For centuries, they were the only ones considered neutral enough to be trusted and the tradition has remained.  We secretly thought they looked Italian.  


St. Peter's Basilica is the largest in the world.
That fact is clearly evident upon entering this massive church.
It covers almost 6 acres and can hold 60,000 people.

We were immediately drawn to another work by Michelangelo.
Pieta, depicts Mary holding her Son's body following the crucifixion.


 Pieta is said to be the only work that Michelangelo ever signed.
At the time, Michelangelo had recently arrived in Rome from Florence.
People saw this beautiful sculpture and did not know to credit it as the work of the 
young Michelangelo who was merely twenty four years old.
In a fit of anger and pride, he signed his name on Mary's garment.
It is said that he was so ashamed of his behavior that he never signed another work again.

Underneath the main dome, also designed by Michelangelo,
stands the baldacchino which covers the papal altar. 
 It is constructed of  927 tons of bronze sculpted by the artist Bernini.


As we left the basilica, preparations were underway for the crowd the Pope would address
the following morning.  It is Grandparent's day in Italy and the Pope is scheduled 
to hold a mass in their honor.











Ancient Pompeii

Our time in Naples, Italy began first thing in the morning at
the ancient Roman town of Pompeii.

This site is remarkable and unique.  The volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD sent a cloak of ash and lava pouring down over this bustling town that, in an instant, both destroyed it and preserved it.  Two thousand people were lost and the area was abandoned until, in the mid-18th century,  a farmer working in his field uncovered something unusual.  
He mentioned his discovery to some explorers passing through the area.  
Soon, experts were called in and an excavation site was set up that continues to this day.  
With more than 20 feet of ash to sift through, the work is painstaking, 
but the resulting recovery has produced more
insight and artifacts of this era than almost any excavation in the world.  

The town center of Pomeii with Mount Vesuvius in the background.


Only seventy percent of Pompeii has been uncovered.  



A view of some of the continued excavation of the site. 


Our interest and enthusiasm for learning about Pompeii began during our studies before we arrived, but it was definitely stoked by our fantastic guide, Lello.  www.toursofpompeii.com
He kept us all riveted with his knowledge, stories, and enthusiasm.  At every turn he would
explain something and then say excitedly to the boys, 
"Do you want to see something even better?"
They were putty in his hands.  So grateful for for amazing teachers everywhere!


A crown of laurel leaves for the Optimist.  
They had the most wonderful scent!



Pompeii was a center for gladiator training.  Slaves were sent from all over the empire
to be housed and trained here in preparation for their famous matches.
In the center is one of the training arenas.  Around the perimeter are individual doors/cells.
Each gladiator/slave had his own quarters - approximately six feet square.


The innovation of the Romans was astounding.
In one of the theatres, Lello had the boys stand at the back and  quietly say, "one, two, three."
Nothing unusual happened.  Then he had them walk two paces forward and repeat the exercise.
Nothing.  Then two more paces forward to the place indicated by a very small grey tile.  This time, "one, two, three" sounded like, "ONE, TWO, THREE!"  It was unbelievable!  Suddenly, their voices carried with all the acoustic abilities of a real microphone.    


By the time we arrived at the next theatre, we were ready for a performance!
  No grey marker this time.  Instead, Lello magically drew a circle in the sand at just the right spot.  The Optimist ran up into the stands to test NoFear on the "microphone."  Even a whisper could be heard loud and clear.  Amazing!



Lello explained how seating in the theatre was designed.
The wealthy male patrons reclined on the lower level as demonstrated by The Optimist.


The next level had seat numbers, where more men sat upright at their assigned place.
And the women?  They were assigned standing room at the very top of theatre.  
Maybe this advanced Roman society still had a few kinks to work out.


The infrastructure of the town is amazing.  
Lello showed us a video he made just a few days before during a rainstorm.
We couldn't believe how this street turned into a rushing river.
This "crosswalk" solves the problem.  Look carefully next to the stones and you can see the ruts in the road formed by wagons and chariots of another time.


There were many "fast food" stalls lining the busy streets.
Lello called this, "the first McDonald's."
We thought of Dad when we saw this awesome pizza oven.


This stall would have served hot soups or stews kept warm in these clay pots 
and stoked with fires underneath.


The homes were richly painted.  Ancient Rome was a colorful place.
Here is a rare glimpse of how brightly they decorated their surroundings.


The excavation has produced thousands of intact artifacts - pieces of furniture and pottery, even jars of preserved fruit and whole loaves of bread.  


Of course, most sobering is the fact that the excavation has also yielded the remains of hundreds of people.  Archeologists have created a process of injecting plaster/epoxy into human remains that can create lifelike forms seemingly out of the dust.  
This process gives us a great deal of information about the people of Pompeii.  

We learned that they were considerably shorter than we are now - although the wealthy were generally taller than the poor - largely due to better nutrition.
We could also see that most of these people died of suffocation, as the molds produced from their remains often showed their mouths open as if gasping for breath or their forms huddled, 
seemingly trying to ward of danger and death.  

Pompeii is a town rich in discovery of innovation, culture, and tragedy.
Our time there was truly unforgettable.