We had no idea the treat we were in for as we headed to Mt. Koya. Visiting the village of Kyosan required us to take three very long train rides to the base of the mountain, a cable car to get up the mountain, and a bus to get into the village.
In a moment, we knew it was worth every minute. Without a doubt, this is one of the most remarkable places we have ever been. We all immediately fell under its magical spell. The village houses more than 1000 Buddhist monks who live in more than 100 temples. These temples (shukubo) allow guests to have dinner, stay the night, and enjoy a buddhist chant ceremony early in the morning followed by breakfast. We stayed at the Shojoshin-in.
The village is the center of Shingon Buddhism, introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai. He is one of the most prominent religious figures in Japanese history. From our shukubo, we were able to walk through the cemetery that leads to the temple where Kukai in enshrined. This is one of the most sacred places in Japan and many followers make pilgrimages here. The path is more than a mile and a half through massive, towering pine trees that provide the backdrop to more than 200,000 tombstones.
At first these little statues wearing aprons and other clothing made us giggle, but when we asked a guide what the significance of them was, then it made us - ok me - cry. When people are concerned about their children, they cloth the statues at the graves of their ancestors and ask them to clothe their children with protection. These were also the sites with the most coins left as offerings. This mama heart understood. We were all so touched each time we saw one.
At the end of the path, we arrived at the Okunoin Temple where Kukai is enshrined.
The mausoleum where Kukai is said to be in eternal meditation (rather than death) is just behind.
No pictures inside here, but the Torodo Hall (Hall of Lamps) next door was a remarkable site. More than 10,000 lamps have been donated by followers in memoriam. They are always lit to symbolize eternal life. There are two lamps that have remained lit for more than 4000 years.
We exited the way most people would enter, past the Mizumuke Jizo. Here people wash before walking to the temple and pray for their ancestors. They also toss water on the statues as they stop at each one.
It was soon time to head back for our shojin ryori (traditional vegetarian monk cuisine). We all put on our robes. The boys tried to find their zen...
... but they quickly found their ninja/samurai instead.
Tummies rumbling, we headed to main hall for dinner. Check out the shoes!
Shojin ryori is served with five methods of cooking and five colors. It was wonderful. Vegetable tempura, ginger soup, clear soup, vegetables we head never seen or tasted, beans, rice, pickled stuff, and fruit for dessert. It wasn't all a hit, but most of it was delicious.
Afterward, NoFear had a soak in the deep wooden tub, dug well below the ground.
In the morning we were up for the 6:30 chanting ceremony.
NoFear admires the amazing gardens as he washes before breakfast.
The Optimist told our host how much he loved the "bird cookies" they had given us when we arrived. Our gracious host emptied every container he could find and gave us all of them.
Our original plan was to leave first thing in the morning. We have a long list of places to visit! However, March 21st - the first day of spring - marks a festival and celebration in town. They mark it with a day of service. We were all anxious to stay and it turned out to be a perfect day. One of the businesses was offering free electric bicycle rentals for locals. We didn't qualify until a volunteer guide who had helped us earlier offered to use her address as collateral. We were so happy to be able to race up the hill to have a close up look at the famous gate that marks the entrance to the village, the Daimon Gate. Buddhists consider this the entrance to their holy land.
Shintoism and Buddhism often coexist. Next to this Buddhist gate, was a Shinto gate leading up the mountain to a Shinto shrine. Both are painted vermillion for health and protection.
We revisited many of the places we had been the day before, cycling from one end of the village to the other. As we headed back to return the bicycles, we past the Shojoshin-in where we had stayed the night before. Out front a man on his pilgrimage had paused to have a look at the activity of the workers. Seeing him there was a postcard perfect end to an unforgettable day in Kysoan.
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