On the Road Again! Pisa and Lucca

The time had come once again to take to the open road - making our best guess on
rules, road signs, toll booths, and other such obstacles.
From Florence, we loaded in our Fiat 500L and headed for Pisa.


The Leaning Tower of Pisa is actually just the bell tower in the church square of Pisa.
Due to unstable soil conditions, the tower began to lean during construction.
Upon completion, it had garnered so much attention, that is has simply enjoyed its
superstar status and became the symbol of Pisa.


From Pisa we headed to Lucca - a beautiful Tuscan town with an ancient city wall completely intact with a walking/biking path.  Perfectly picturesque - and it burns off a little boy energy too!




Next, we headed into town for a closer look.


How I wished we were staying a little longer in this beautiful town.
Puccini was born here and they hold nightly concerts in the cathedral
dedicated to his music.  That is a "must do" for another time.
For now, it was time to grab a bite and head for our next apartment.

This pizza is a local specialty.  It may not look like much, but it was amazing!
It's 5 cheese and black pepper pizza.  One of the cheeses is marscapone - the 
rest are different grated cheeses.  Add a heavy dose of black pepper and a great crust - the combination was a winner.  We'll give this one a shot at home!


As we headed out of the pizza shop, the boys suddenly started yelling and waving their arms, chasing something down the street.  They were not the only ones doing this.  What was going on?

A visitor had just rolled into town and everyone wanted to be on camera.
The Google car!


The boys plan to continue to log in to Google Maps in Lucca at this intersection hoping
to see themselves running down this street in Italy!  



From Lucca, we drove to our next apartment.  
We had rented a converted wine cellar atop the tiny ancient village of Arcola.  


The sun was setting, but we took a few minutes to have a look around.
A beautiful view of the surrounding countryside.




When the owner told us there were two places to eat in town - both good - we were thrilled.
We had no idea that one of them was SO good, that people drove from all over to eat there.
We had to walk 15 steps down the hill.  Perfect.






Florence - the Duomo


My computer keeps eating some of my photographs.
Another day in Florence wiped out.
Fortunately, we visited the Duomo on two separate occasions so I will try to piece it
together.  I used this picture from the web to show this very famous church.
Some call it the Florence Duomo, others the Santa Maria Basilica.
Either way it is truly spectacular!


During our studies before we arrived, we became extremely interested in two
parts of the building, the dome itself and the doors on the baptistry.

In the early 15th century, Florence had a problem.  They had a huge hole in the roof
of their cathedral.  The original plan when the church was built in 1296 was to add a 
dome, but one problem continue to vex them - no one had ever built a dome so large as
to cover the 150 feet in diameter.  The problem was even more difficult now as it had to be 
built on existing walls beginning 180 feet in the air.
The leaders of the day announced a competition.  All the leading architects from around the 
country raced to Florence to present their ideas.  There was an unexpected entry from a
man who was more a goldsmith and an artist than an architect.  
His name was Fillipo Brunelleschi.

The boys loved the story of how he presented his dome and was scoffed at by the other 
architects.  In reply, he pulled out an egg, passed it around the table, and asked each person, in turn, 
to stand the egg on its end.  Each tried and failed.  "Impossible," they said.
When the egg made it back to Brunelleschi he simply smashed the end on the table and the egg stood.
"But we could have done that," they cried.  "That's exactly what you'll say when I finish
my dome," replied Brunelleschi - and he didn't tell them how would accomplish it.

He won the bid and the work began.
His brilliant idea to build a dome within a dome with tension rings of stone, iron, and wood
between them had never before been attempted, but it worked!

The dome from the inside - also remarkable - is entitled, The Last Judgement.
It was painted by Vasari and Zuccari.


The other account that drew the boys interest was the creation of the Gates of Paradise,
the doors on the baptistry that sits next to the Duomo.  
Once again, a competition was announced.
The winning design would grace the north doors of the baptistry.
Two well-known artists who were also best friends, entered the contest, Brunelleschi and Donatello. 
It is recorded that these two bet dinner over who win the competition.
A total of seven entries were received and publicly displayed.
When the best friends went to view all the entries - they immediately came to the conclusion
that everyone else came to - they had both lost.

An artist named Ghiberti had designed his doors with such depth, perspective, and movement,
they outshone all other entries.  Ghiberti was later commissioned to do another set of doors.
The two became his life's work as he spent almost 30 years completing and installing them.

Fifty years later, Michelangelo stood in front of Ghiberti's doors and exclaimed,
"they are worthy to be the gates of paradise" - and they have been called that ever since.








Florence - the iPhone 6 Invades Florence!


In between now and our latest visit from Dad, he had to fly home for meetings.
When he asked what the boys wanted him to bring back NoFear replied,
"popcorn and an iPhone6."  This is a bit of an inside joke in our family as we 
exist in a bit of a paradox.  We're not big fans of kids with cell phones at a young age.
We just don't like the link to the world that comes ever so quickly.
Our kids obviously do not agree.
In fact, NoFear considered it cruel and unusual punishment last year when he
announced he was, "the only kids in 8th grade without a cell phone."
We're also not above bribery and replied, "earn your Eagle and you will have proved
yourself mature enough to handle responsibility of a cell phone."
The drive and passion of NoFear are some of his greatest qualities.
Sure enough, his Eagle was complete by the time we left on our adventure, and while
he couldn't actually use his cell phone much overseas, he loved the fact that he had it.
The other side of the paradox.  Dad loves technology....and he misses his kids....
and today he arrived in Florence...with an iPhone 6 for NoFear.


Fortunately, Dad arrived after we had seen a few more sights that day or I'm not sure we
would have gotten NoFear very interested in much else for a few hours.
So let's rewind to the morning.
We spent a few hours doing schoolwork and then headed to the
famous Uffizi Gallery just after lunch.


This is the point in any good blog where we should be effusing enthusiasm for the 
great works of art we were seeing.  The truth is, we managed enthusiasm for about 20
minutes, and then wound our way through rather quickly.  I think everyone was more 
focused on the fact that Dad was arriving today.  





Outside the Uffizi, we did manage to get excited over one masterpiece.
This famous work is simply titled, The Optimist.


The time finally arrived.  We raced to the train station to meet Dad.
With only a few minutes to bask in the glow of a new iPhone, we drug a
jet-lagged papa up the hill to the Piazza Michelango to bask in the glow of the sunset over Florence.


One of the most beautiful cities in the world!



Florence - Gelato, Michelangelo, Leather, DaVinci!

From Rome, Grandma flew home and the boys and I took the train to Florence.
It has been a special time to have Grandma with us for the first six weeks of our travels.
The next few days were filled with comments like, "Oh Grandma would have loved this!"

I was also thinking fondly of my amazing mom who gave me a very memorable 
gift many years ago.  I was on a study abroad program with my university.  
On my 20th birthday, I woke up in Rome, took the train to Pisa, and then on to 
Florence.  When I arrived in Florence, there was a FedEx package waiting for me at the
hotel.  It was a "Happy Birthday" from my mom.  Inside was her credit card and a note 
telling me to go and buy a leather jacket for my birthday.  I still have that jacket.

Speaking of leather purchases, our first morning, we wandered through the San Lorenzo market on our way to the Mercato Centrale.  The Optimist had somehow misplaced his leather belt in Rome.
We were certain that Florence - with all its leather markets - would be the 
ideal place to find a replacement.  He looked carefully, found a few contenders,
bartered heavily, but opted to wait and look around a bit more.


So we headed to Mercate Centrale to have a look around at all the 
fresh meat, fish, produce, vinegar, etc. and to grab a cheap but delicious
bite to eat.


Fresh made tortellini with a ham and leek cream sauce and
cheese ravioli with Bolognese.  Yummy!


With happy tummies, we headed off to see some of the sites.

Just around the corner was the Basilica of San Lorenzo.
San Lorenzo was part of the famous Medici family - powerful and wealthy patrons of Italy, particularly the city of Florence.  They contributed significantly to the rise of the Renaissance era.

The story begins with Giovanni Medici who came to Florence in the late 14th century.
He was the banker for the Papal court and came to set up headquarters in Florence.
He held public office and amassed an immense fortune.  He was the de facto ruler of Florence.

After his death, his son Cosimo began his life's work of supporting the arts by commissioning great artists, funding the construction of churches for these artists to do their work in, and
sending teams of people far and wide to build a library of enormous volume.

However, it was his grandson, Lorenzo who is remembered most kindly by the people
of Florence.  He was called, Il Magnifico. He continued his grandfather's works as well
as spending mass amounts of money improving the circumstances of the poor.  
Unfortunately, he did not manage his own money very well.
By the time of his death at the end of the 15th century, the Medici family fortune was all but gone,
but the city of Florence was changed forever and the Renaissance had blossomed.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo
We did a wonderful walking tour with a tablet and headphones that
explained the history, art, and architecture of the basilica and surrounding areas.



The famous sculptor, Donatello is buried here.


Many of these rooms are filled the enormous book collection of the Medici family.
Michelangelo designed the library, the Bibliotecha Laurenziana, and sculpted
the crypts of Lorenzo and Giuliano Medici.


We saw two replicas of Michelangelo's David during our time in Florence. 
The first was in the Piazza della Signoria.  This is where the original was displayed until
it was removed for safekeeping to the Accademia Gallery in 1873.
The other was a bronze in the Piazalle Michelangelo, the best place to hike for a beautiful
view of the city....but more on that later.


We agreed that this could be NoFear's first car.


Charming sights everywhere in the streets of Florence.



Continuing our intensive research from Rome, we had consistently inquired and sought out 
samples of gelato throughout the city.  On this day, based on a recommendation we
found online, we hit serious pay dirt.  Florence is the home of gelato, and this is the best gelato 
we found in all of Florence.  We therefore dub
 Vivoli's - The Best Gelato in the WORLD!...at least according to this crew.
The neon sign is hard to see but don't miss this one.  Delicious!


Just around the corner, we headed for the Basilica di Santa Croce.
This Franciscan church was built toward the end of the 13th century.

It houses many tombs of some of the most famous figures...
...Michelangelo


...Galileo - born in Pisa, but buried here.


... and this memorial to Dante - although his sarcophogus is empty. 


From the main church there is a courtyard that leads to many smaller chapels.


Our favorite was the Santa Croce Refectory.
One entire wall is filled with the works of Taddeo Gaddi.
We sat for a long time and admired, Last Supper, the Tree of Life, and Four Miracles.


The Ponte Vecchio
This famous bridge used to house all the butchers in Florence - who no doubt found the river 
a handy repository for any leftovers.  Ew!  The area developed a certain aroma that was 
displeasing to the wealthy people on the hill above.  
They passed a law that continues to this day.
Only jewelers can operate a business on the Ponte Vecchio.



After walking along the river and seeing the sights of Ponte Vecchio we headed back
toward the apartment to rest and get some school work done.
Suddenly, The Optimist spied a leather belt stand glowing in the distance!


The perfect church belt, custom sized to just the right fit.
Happiness!


Later that night, the boys had one thing left on their agenda that they insisted on seeing,
The Leonard DaVinci museum.  It was just around the corner, so off we went.

Many of the exhibits were hands-on, so this small museum was perfect
for the boys to spend some time twiddling with all the inventions.



DaVinci created a working robot!


Flying machines and tanks along with an enormous number
of gears, scales, pulleys, etc., tasked with all kinds of jobs.


Also on display, some of his notebooks filled with his notes, drawings, and ideas.


Fortunately, these were displayed near a bench so an exhausted MamaG could quietly sit and 
enjoy them while the boys played until the museum closed and they sent us home.