Beijing - National Museum, Planning Exhibition Hall, Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City

Our morning began with a trip to the National Museum of China - the perfect way to compliment our studies of Chinese history and provide a greater foundation to what we would be seeing over the next few days.  It was so fascinating to view history from the perspective of the government of China.  As we wound our way through time, dynasty by dynasty, the narrative carefully laid out the need for communism and extolled the "virtues" of this system that had saved China after centuries of conflict and repression.  

The Beijing Planning and Exhibition Hall gave us a wonderful perspective on the city itself.  This room contained a scaled model of much of the city with glass panels continuing where the models end.

The Optimist doing his Godzilla impression!

Walking on these glass panels created an electric charge...

...that did wonders for my hair!

Nearby, we entered the famous Tiananmen Square.  Earlier in the day, this square was absolutely packed with people as the mausoleum that holds Chairman Mao's ashes is open for viewing each morning.  The Chinese people still crowd the square daily to pay homage to their revered leader who stood in this square in 1949 and announced the establishment of the People's Republic of China.  We had to pass through a security check to enter the area.  For us, it was simply a bag check and security screen, however, all Chinese citizens are required have their ID badges scanned so the government knows exactly who entered the premises.  To most westerners, this square is more likely famous for the conflict/massacre of student protestors in 1989 and is still a symbol of protest today.  It is heavily monitored to quash any dissemination of information to the general public.  In fact, just before we took this picture, a police car raced across our path.  Just a few feet away, officers leapt from the vehicle and began yanking papers from people's hands and jumping the barricade to collect papers that had been thrown into the street.  Without our even noticing, someone nearby had begun to hand out some kind of information.  In seconds, the incident was over and everyone continued on as if nothing had happened.  It was a surreal feeling and a abrupt reminder of a system so different from our own.  

Crossing the square brought us to the entrance of the historic Forbidden City/Imperial Palace.

This 15th century complex comprises more than 250 acres of buildings, temples, and residences that served the royal family during the Ming and Qing dynasties.  Only the emperor and limited royal guests could enter the inner court, hence the name, the Forbidden City.

Each passageway in the palace has a threshold.  It was believed that evil spirits do not possess the power to jump so these thresholds would protect those inside from harm.  

In one area the thresholds were removed.  We learned that the emperor had been given the gift of a bicycle by a foreign emissary.  He took his chances with the evil spirits to allow himself a free area in which to ride his bicycle!  The Chinese culture also holds that the number 9 is the supreme number as odd numbers are the most lucky and 9 is the largest odd number.  Thus the pattern of 9's is seen everywhere throughout the palace.  9 steps, 9 arches - even 9 by 9 decorations on most doors.

We got such a kick out of this!  Many Chinese people dress their toddlers in clothing that have slits in the pants.  These openings make it unnecessary for the children to wear diapers as they can (and do!) squat anywhere, anytime to take care of business.  This cute mom in front of us was maintaining her little guy's modesty as they walked!  

Our wonderful day ended with an impressive Kung Fu show at a local theatre.  Beautiful costumes and remarkable talent!  Such a treat.

Beijing - Wangfujing

We close our time in Asia, with five days in the Beijing area.  It is hard to imagine more spectacular bookends to our trip than Japan on one end and Beijing, China on the other.  Our guide in Beijing was remarkable in her generosity, answering our many questions about the people, the culture, the history, and the politics.  We learned so much from her.  Beijing is one of the largest cities in the world with more than 20 million people.  This massive quantity of people creates a menagerie of sights, sounds, smells, pollution, and bustle that is both overwhelming and exhilarating.  The afternoon of our arrival, the pollution index was slightly above normal, not too much of a concern to most of the locals, but for us the air hung heavy, the city shrouded in a grey cloud that was palpable.  The Optimist was quick to don his filtered mask and we hit the streets anxious to explore an area nearby -- the famed Wangfujing.  This area is the "Times Square" of Beijing.

The food stalls at Wangfujing were unbelievable!  The same critters we call pest control to rid ourselves from, these vendors put on a stick and sell as a snack.  We couldn't believe our eyes!  Scorpions, cicadas, tarantulas, beetles, snakes -- people were gobbling them up -- literally!

The vendors are in a constant chatter -- calling out their wares and enticing buyers to their stalls.  This hotspot only gets busier as the night goes on.

We had no doubt that this fun contraption would end up in our suitcase.  Let the bargaining begin!  Bartering is an art form in Beijing.  Today's price was 128 yuan each - or about $40 for the pair.  By the time the boys had bartered with seemingly every street vendor in the city, we ended up with a pair for 25 yuan or about $4.  You know you've hit the right price when you walk away and the seller chases you down the street.  Until then, you keep negotiating!  

The most important part of our day was when our Chinese tailor met us at the hotel.  The Optimist turns 12 in a few weeks and will be ordained a deacon at church.  He was SO excited to have his measurements taken and choose the style and fabric for his new suit.  The tailor promised to have it finished in 24 hours.  We could hardly wait!!

Singapore - Arrested!

This morning we hopped on the 7 hour flight from Osaka to Singapore.  We discovered that is just about how long it takes of us to get into trouble!!  While in Japan, the Optimist was super excited about buying some ninja stars.  At a tourist shop in Osaka, we did just that - although they were the $4 toy version of ninja stars.  When we landed in Singapore, we collected our luggage and were preparing to exit when we were selected to have our luggage scanned.  Imagine our surprise when the guard asked us to follow him to the police station as we had illegal weapons in our luggage!  In the end, we were held for 45 minutes until the police came and wrote up a report on the incident.  They seized the toy ninja stars, and made me sign a paper apprising me of future harsh consequences should I ever again import "contraband."  As serious as the situation was, we were grateful for their kindness too.  They understood they were toys, but they were bound by their rules.  One guard kept saying to the Optimist, "don't cry.  please don't cry."  You could tell he knew he had just taken candy away from a kid!  So -- no  ninja stars, but they did let us take a parting picture.

Singapore is an amazing city of more than 5 million people.  We arrived on a historic day.  Only hours before, Singapore's founding father, former Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew passed away.  The legacy of his vision was evident in everything we learned and saw.  His transformation of this almost unknown country into a global financial center and attractive tourist hub is remarkable.  While some of the rules and regulations put in place to accomplish this were surprising - even shocking - we were anxious to explore this wonderful city and learn more.

None of us had been here before.  As this country had not been part of our world history studies, we didn't even realize that English was the first language!  That made it so much simpler when we got arrested!  After weeks of traveling in Asia, it was a welcome break to not have communication barriers.  We were immediately struck by the cleanliness of the city and the considerable effort that has recently been made to improve the infrastructure and attractiveness of the area.  The government is so adamant about cleanliness that chewing gum is illegal.  You cannot purchase it and you cannot chew it!  That's a rule I could live with, but NoFear was not impressed!

The construction is truly remarkable!  Pictured below is the Marina Bay Sands hotel.  This structure is built out over the harbor.  The entire top of the hotel is a massive infinity pool.  Gambling is illegal in Singapore for residents, but apparently foreigners can gamble to their heart's content.   

We felt completely safe as we wandered around the city.  Street crime is almost unheard of in Singapore as the penalty for many offenses is death.  For example, if you discharge a weapon in Singapore, even for target practice, you are put to death.  Almost all weapons are banned.  Also, for a highly populated city condensed into such a small area, there are virtually no traffic problems.  This is because the government imposes a massive automobile tax to purchase a vehicle.  The certificate alone that gives you the right to buy a vehicle has a price tag starting at $65,000.  After that, the vehicle is is typically four times the cost of the same vehicle here because of extraordinarily high import taxes.  Bottom line, Singapore doesn't want pollution and it doesn't want traffic problems, so the government makes owning a vehicle so out of reach for most people that neither is a problem.  Our guide told us he travels quite well via BMW - Bus, Mass Transit (train), and Walking.  We saw our first private car elevator in Singapore next to our hotel.  An apartment high rise had an elevator door, the owner drives in, the elevator rises, the owner exits the elevator into his personal high rise parking spot connected to his apartment, and the elevator returns to the street level.  Pretty cool.

We headed to Gardens By The Bay where we toured Cloud Forest.  This area is filled with "Supertrees" that are part of a nightly light show.  Out of respect for the death of Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, the light show was suspended, but the Supertrees were still pretty impressive.

Cloud Forest is a series of indoor gardens.  The boys humored me by touring the tulip show.

I thought it was spectacular! 

Check out the reflection in the mirror.  Do you think they were enjoying this as much as I was?  :)

Fortunately, they can find fun anywhere!

Jump and slide!

Narnia anyone?

We decided it would be fun to get a view of the sights from the water so we headed to the harbor.  The Optimist voted for this mode of transportation...

...but we went with this instead.

The duck tours took us through the historic part of the city on land and then into the water for a close up of the harbor venues.  

The Singapore Flyer - built to be the tallest ferris wheel in the world - that only lasted a few months until a taller structure was built in Las Vegas.  Second tallest is still pretty impressive.  

A view from the harbor of Cloud Forest and Supertree Grove.

The national symbol of Singapore, the Merlion - part mermaid, part lion.

Church in Osaka - afternoon in Kyoto

Our time in Japan has been a highlight of our year of travel.  We met one brave knight from France who helped us in such a thoughtful way.  When we were all thanking him profusely he said, "My wife and I have been traveling in Japan for more than seven weeks now.  Before this trip, I would have acted indifferent, more in keeping with my culture, but I have had the benefit of so many wonderful Japanese people so willing to help and serve that it has changed me."  We have had the same experience of feeling of the warmth and kindness of the Japanese people.  Our French friend hit on the very reason for our travel -- to learn from other people and cultures and to become better for having done so.  The people of Japan have certainly helped us draw closer to this goal.  We leave here with thankful hearts and priceless lessons and memories.

Our last day in Japan.  We attended church this morning at the Sekime Ward in Osaka.  It was ward conference and the Stake President and Bishop were outside greeting guests as they arrived.  They were so welcoming, we immediately felt at home.  

We soon felt more at home when we met the missionaries.  No shock what comes next, one of them is dear friends of an adopted sibling in our home who moved to Colorado!

After church, we headed to the train station to catch yet another bullet train.  This time our destination was Kyoto.  

In Kyoto, we headed to the Kiyomizudera temple.  We entered through these beautiful gates.

Much of the temple is undergoing renovation so access was difficult and many parts were closed, but the building and grounds were still amazing.

We wandered through the beautiful gardens and found these beautiful girls.

NoFear wasn't feeling well today, but we still took a little time to stroll back through the Higashiyama district.  This area is filled with wonderful shops in historic buildings.  The Optimist bought some ninja stars and we found a hair ornament for Sissy.  

We also had some delicious ice cream and a dumpling!  Yum!

Mt. Koya - Koyasan - Buddhist Temple Stay

We had no idea the treat we were in for as we headed to Mt. Koya.  Visiting the village of Kyosan required us to take three very long train rides to the base of the mountain, a cable car to get up the mountain, and a bus to get into the village.  

In a moment, we knew it was worth every minute.  Without a doubt, this is one of the most remarkable places we have ever been.  We all immediately fell under its magical spell.  The village houses more than 1000 Buddhist monks who live in more than 100 temples.  These temples (shukubo) allow guests to have dinner, stay the night, and enjoy a buddhist chant ceremony early in the morning followed by breakfast.  We stayed at the Shojoshin-in.  

The village is the center of Shingon Buddhism, introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai.  He is one of the most prominent religious figures in Japanese history.  From our shukubo, we were able to walk through the cemetery that leads to the temple where Kukai in enshrined.  This is one of the most sacred places in Japan and many followers make pilgrimages here.  The path is more than a mile and a half through massive, towering pine trees that provide the backdrop to more than 200,000 tombstones.

At first these little statues wearing aprons and other clothing made us giggle, but when we asked a guide what the significance of them was, then it made us - ok me - cry.  When people are concerned about their children, they cloth the statues at the graves of their ancestors and ask them to clothe their children with protection.  These were also the sites with the most coins left as offerings.  This mama heart understood.  We were all so touched each time we saw one.

At the end of the path, we arrived at the Okunoin Temple where Kukai is enshrined.

The mausoleum where Kukai is said to be in eternal meditation (rather than death) is just behind.  

No pictures inside here, but the Torodo Hall (Hall of Lamps) next door was a remarkable site.  More than 10,000 lamps have been donated by followers in memoriam.  They are always lit to symbolize eternal life. There are two lamps that have remained lit for more than 4000 years.  

We exited the way most people would enter, past the Mizumuke Jizo.  Here people wash before walking to the temple and pray for their ancestors.  They also toss water on the statues as they stop at each one.  

It was soon time to head back for our shojin ryori (traditional vegetarian monk cuisine).  We all put on our robes.  The boys tried to find their zen...

... but they quickly found their ninja/samurai instead.

Tummies rumbling, we headed to main hall for dinner.  Check out the shoes!

Shojin ryori is served with five methods of cooking and five colors.  It was wonderful.  Vegetable tempura, ginger soup, clear soup, vegetables we head never seen or tasted, beans, rice, pickled stuff, and fruit for dessert.  It wasn't all a hit, but most of it was delicious.

Afterward, NoFear had a soak in the deep wooden tub, dug well below the ground.

In the morning we were up for the 6:30 chanting ceremony.

NoFear admires the amazing gardens as he washes before breakfast.

The Optimist told our host how much he loved the "bird cookies" they had given us when we arrived.  Our gracious host emptied every container he could find and gave us all of them.

Our original plan was to leave first thing in the morning.  We have a long list of places to visit!  However, March 21st - the first day of spring - marks a festival and celebration in town.  They mark it with a day of service.  We were all anxious to stay and it turned out to be a perfect day.  One of the businesses was offering free electric bicycle rentals for locals.  We didn't qualify until a volunteer guide who had helped us earlier offered to use her address as collateral.  We were so happy to be able to race up the hill to have a close up look at the famous gate that marks the entrance to the village, the Daimon Gate.  Buddhists consider this the entrance to their holy land.

Shintoism and Buddhism often coexist.  Next to this Buddhist gate, was a Shinto gate leading up the mountain to a Shinto shrine.  Both are painted vermillion for health and protection.

We revisited many of the places we had been the day before, cycling from one end of the village to the other.  As we headed back to return the bicycles, we past the Shojoshin-in where we had stayed the night before.  Out front a man on his pilgrimage had paused to have a look at the activity of the workers.  Seeing him there was a postcard perfect end to an unforgettable day in Kysoan.